Time-Lapse Creation

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The mission of this site is to explore time-lapse motion-picture photography and motion-controlled cinematography for scientific purposes and artistic curiosity.

All footage on this web site is currently not for sale but is available cost-free for schools, non-profit organizations and government. Please contact me (KHashmi316 at fastmail dot com) for more information.

Laptop-controlled Canon Digital Rebel using Breeze Systems DSLR Remote Pro was used for this time-lapse sequence.
The image below is a still from this sequence (the constellation captions were added to this image only and are not part of the movie):
still from this sequence -- click for movie

Below are images of a self-built, microprocessor-controlled "Panobot". In its present design, it acts like a turntable to rotate a camera on a vertical axis. It is programmed for a range of rotating speeds including very-slow, incremental, and rapid. It is made from LEGO parts and LEGO Mindstorm hardware; programming was done in NQC language (see below).

The program that controls basic "stepper" movements is below:

#define BOTH_MOTORS OUT_A + OUT_C // macro for both mtrs
#define LEFT_MOTOR OUT_A // macro for left mtrs
#define RIGHT_MOTOR OUT_C // macro for right mtrs

task main()
{

until ((SENSOR_1==1) && (SENSOR_3==1)) {

SetPower(LEFT_MOTOR, 7);
OnFwd(LEFT_MOTOR);
Wait(2);
Off(LEFT_MOTOR);
Wait(250);

}
}

// end of program.


Stills from time-lapse sequences shot from January to March 2005:

Sunset at White Point Bluff park, San Pedro, CA
above: Sunset at White Point Bluff park, San Pedro, CA. Sample movie available on request.

image Looking north-west from Redondo Beach, CA
above: Looking north-west from Redondo Beach, CA. Sample movie available on request.

image: Looking north-east from Marina Del Rey (Ballona creek), CA
above: Looking north-east from Marina Del Rey (Ballona creek), CA

How to Create a High-Resolution Time-Lapse segment

Tools needed:

Digital Camera and remote control
Camera-Controlling Software (optional but recommended)

Advanced Batch Convert (ABC)
Apple Quick Time Pro (QT)
Digital Video Conversion Software (e.g. Ulead Video Studio, Canopus, Adobe, Pinnacle)

Procedure:

Camera

Basic:

Choose subject matter (e.g. clouds) and depress remote button at regular intervals (e.g. every 10 sec.) for a certain length of time. Exactly how long depends on your specific needs. One second equals 24 or 30 frames basically so if you want a 10 second clip, capture 240 to 300 frames. The interval can be determined by the time period over which the time-lapse is taking place. For example if you want it to take place over one hour, 300 frames in an hour is basically 5 frames taken every minute or one shot every 12 seconds. If you want the time-lapse to take place over 5 hours you take 60 pics an hour or one every minute.

If you’re manually triggering the shutter remote, a stopwatch helps to time each frame. Or you can count 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000, etc.

Alternatively, use a shutter remote in locked position, and let the camera "fire away". Using a Canon Digital Rebel, in "continuous shooting" mode, the frame-rate starts out at ~2.5 frames/second for roughly the first 20 frames. Then, the frame-rate slows to an almost-steady rate of 1 frame every 4 seconds; it will continue at this rate (without slowing down further) until the memory card is full (or until you stop capturing). I have found this "default" rate quite acceptable for time-lapse photography.

Advanced:

If you have a laptop computer, you may also use camera-controlling software. Sometimes, a digital camera will come with such software, so check the owner's manual. Breeze Systems, a third-party software company, sells programs for Canon cameras. They allow control and image-manipulation functions beyond that of the software that comes pre-packaged with the camera.

Image Processing and Rendering

Open ABC, and select Batch Mode. Choose folder with images (use a dedicated folder for each sequentially-taken and scene-specific image sequence) and click Add all. Tweak images (brightness, contrast, etc.) using Advanced options. Modify output file names as necessary (see below). Output should be *.tiff. Click Start. This will take a while to process.

In QT, choose File > Open Image Sequence… > (Select folder with images; use a dedicated folder for each sequentially-taken and scene-specific images) > choose Frame Rate (23.97 o4 29.97 fps). Then choose File > Save As > give it a file name, select “Make movie self contained”, and click Save. This will take a while to process. CAUTIONS: (a) file names must not be too long; use ABC to modify file names. (2) QT performs and finishes this task w/o status indicators.

QT’s output format can be changed (e.g., AVI, etc.) using the Export feature. Alternatively, convert from *.mov to another format using Ulead or Canopus.

Canopus ProCoder Express Notes:

Canopus is faster than Ulead and can create Apple *.mov files. It’s a bit trickier to configure, but the results are well worth the learning curve.


Ulead Notes:
Video Save Options:
Uncheck “Perform non-square pixel rendering”
Select Frame rate to match that chosen in QT rendering.

Canon Digital Rebel Notes:

2003-03-27:

Results of “Err 99” test using DSLR Remote. Two tests, 200 shots each, with shutter set to 1” for first and 1/60 for second, and 10-sec interval between shots for both test REVEALED NO PROBLEM. Problem may be due to use of Remote Control.

Post on dpreview.com 2005-03-27:

ERR 99 related to remote (RS60-E3) use?

On my EOS 300D, I have noted the infamous ERR 99 *randomly* cropping up while using Canon's RS60-E3 remote control. I purchased the EOS 300D in December 2004 from a reputable US dealer (B&H Photo) and have not used it that much. When I do use it, it is with the purpose of creating time-lapse movies; this requires either using either the aforementioned remote or camera-controlling software (e.g. BreezeSystems DSLR Remote Pro).

During my use, ERR 99 seems to occur *only* when using the remote – this is an inference based on specific experiments I conducted to induce ERR 99. That is, for equal number of shots – all with identical camera setting and intervals between shots – my EOS 300D erred only when RS60-E3 was in use. I have not noticed this error when using the *camera’s* shutter release but, alas, this button is not used frequently enough in my experience to make a statistically-valid inference.

2005-04-01:

"ERR 99" issue resolved. The error was indeed cause by repeatedly depressing the contact switch on the RS60-E3. If one locks the remote switch, and lets the camera fire away on its own, the problem does not crop up. I have now shot over 80,000 frames without "ERR 99" ever appearing.


Time-lapse home

California still images and panoramas

Nature Photography: Tips, Techniques and Examples

Astrophotography: Film vs. Digital

Ohio still images and panoramas

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