Tires

How to Choose Tires t's been raining for the last few days, but you decide not to change out your semi-slicks for tires with more grip. Inevitably, at some point during the mud-splashed ride, your bike goes south and you go north. But don't worry, your knee will heal. Bike style, your ability, and the terrain and conditions determine the tire you use. If you can afford it, get two sets of tires and use them as conditions warrant. For the best grip, the edges of your treads should be sharp. If they're worn down—rounded, nicked or cut—it's time for new tires. Only pro racers can afford a tire for every circumstance. Most cyclists (and this means mainly road and mountain cyclists) have at least two sets of tires. One set is for grip, the other for speed. So which do you choose? Take a look at your bike. Obviously a mountain bike will require different tires from a touring, road or commuter bike. Take a look at your abilities. The more experienced you are, the more you'll want to run a terrain-specific tire. If you're just getting into cycling, you should go with a tire designed for general use. Take a look at the terrain. Riding primarily steep, rocky trails requires a different tire from gravel or paved roads. Take a look at conditions. Terrain aside, riding hard pack or road, gravel or dirt will determine the tire you ride. Generally, drier regions can ride faster tires; wetter regions require all the grip tires can give.

Understanding Tread

Slicks Little or no tread means very little rolling resistance. For city riding you don't want a narrow road tire. Get something beefier, say, a 26 x 1.5-inch tire. Primary use: Street, slickrock.

Inverts Inverted tread and smooth sides give low rolling resistance and good traction on pavement and gravel alike. Primary use: Street, town and country, touring.

General-Purpose A good all-purpose tire with low tread, tough rubber compounds and a nice, rounded profile. Also look for a center tread line. This helps lower rolling resistance, as well. Primary use: Street, town and country, touring.

Road/Racing Take little or no tread, high air pressure and a narrow profile, it all adds up to fast tires that can rack up the mileage quickly. Also, look for special compounds like silica for traction and, nylon or Kevlar®, for strength. Racing tires often do double duty as street tires. Primary use: Street, racing.

Knobbies Look for details like directional treads, which improve handling, and center treads for less rolling resistance with a minimum loss of traction. For tight or fast trail riding in nothing but dirt and rocks, look for big, variable-height, four- or five-sided knobbies. Kevlar sidewalls will help with puncture resistance. Primary use: Mountain biking.

Semi-Slicks The idea is to keep the tire smooth down the center for less rolling resistance and knobbied on the sides for traction in the corners. This idea is excellent for packed, dry dirt, but don't even think about it for pavement or mud. Primary use: Mountain biking, slickrock.

More Information

Kevlar® This high-tech fiber increases strength, reduces weight and extends wear life. If it can stop bullets, it can certainly help your tires resist glass and thorns. Silicium Silica fibers, rubber, special bonding compounds and other secret ingredients make this one sticky tire. It comes to the cycling world from motorcycle racing. One disadvantage of silica tires: They wear quickly. Clincher Tire A tire that stays on the rim by the tire bead being captured by the rim walls. Air pressure holds the tire in place. Tubeless Tires without tubes. Special rims are required to run these tires.