To realize the health benefits of bicycling you must learn to spin the pedals at 60—90 r.p.m. or more under almost all conditions. Although that implies becoming a competent bicyclist, all it takes really is to learn the following basic skills:
Starting to Ride Never mount a modern lightweight bicycle by putting one foot on the pedal and kicking off before you get astride it.This can wrench the frame and it won’t work with toeclips. Instead, stand astride the bicycle with one foot on the ground. Insert the other foot into the pedal and toeclip. Press down on the pedal to gain momentum. Then quickly, as the other crankarm reaches the full-up position, place the sole on the rear edge of the pedal so that it turns upright and lets you slip your toe into the toeclip. Modern weighted and clipless pedals make it all much To accelerate quickly, stand up from the saddle and place your full weight first on one pedal, then on the other. Practice this in a traffic-free place until you can do it confidently without weaving from side to side. Once started, you must be able to ride straight without wobbling. If you can’t do this yet, the solution is to keep riding until the brain builds the necessary neural pathways to correct your balance. You can do this most safely on a bicycle path or anywhere else free of vehicles. Do not attempt to ride on streets or roads until you are able to ride straight. Braking and Stopping You’ll quickly discover that the front brake has more stopping power than the rear. Avoid applying the front brake suddenly, as it could grab or lock and throw you over the handlebars. You can minimize this possibility by sliding back in the saddle as you apply the front brake. To stop quickly, apply both brakes together. Assuming there is ample room to stop, use the rear brake only. As you stop, slide forward off the saddle and remove one foot from the toeclip, placing it on the ground. Most riders place their right foot on the ground. If you stop beside a curb, you can place the right foot on the curb without sliding off the saddle. Riding Proficiently To ride long distances without fatigue you must learn to ride in the most efficient posture. Most of what I’m going to say concerns riding a road bike with drop-style handlebars. But much of the advice is just as applicable to a mountain bicycle. Many beginners ride with their shoulders hunched up and with the neck, back, arms, and hands held rigid and tense. Holding the upper body tense not only wastes energy but hinders you in making subtle steering changes. Instead, keep the body above the waist loose and relaxed. Keep the back as straight as possible but lower your shoulders. Keep the elbows flexed and hold the handlebars lightly with your fingers. Only when you stand up from the saddle need you grasp the handlebars more firmly. Use your arms and hands like a jockey riding a racehorse. On a road bike, the angle of your back should be about 45° to the road. In this position, only about half your weight is on the saddle. Approximately 45 percent is supported by your legs as you press down on the pedals, and about 5 percent is borne by your arms. Keep the balls of your feet on the center of the pedals, a position guaranteed by having toeclips and straps. As you begin each pedal downstroke, push the lower leg forward and add power from the thigh. Ease up on pressure as the foot approaches the bottom of the stroke. Although it isn’t essential, you can increase pedaling power by pulling up with your leg during the upstroke. To do this your toeclip strap must be tight, or you must use clipless pedals. In any event, avoid chopping at the pedals with your feet. In stead, swivel the ankle to add power to your pedaling. In this way you can maintain a smooth and fluid pedaling motion. Change Your Riding Position Frequently To prevent stiffness and fatigue, vary your riding position every few minutes. The advantage of drop-type handlebars is that they offer at least three different hand positions. You can place the hands on top of the handlebar. You can place the heels of your hands on the brake lever hoods. Or you can place your hands down on the drops. Going down on the drops provides a streamlined position that can cut wind resistance. The bent-over posture also increases muscle power to the pedals. But leaning forward also stretches the back, extends the spine and— although it’s hard to believe — allows a greater intake of air into the lungs. You should always ride in the crouched-over position, with your hands on the drops, while pedaling into a headwind. At every opportunity while coasting during long rides, you should relax by standing up on the pedals and flexing the back. You should also frequently flutter the fingers, flex the elbows, and deliberately drop and relax the shoulders. Riding in a Paceline Whenever two or more riders are facing a headwind, both can make better time by working together in a paceline. This simply means riding in single file, one behind the other. This is standard practice in racing and is described in Section 15 under “How to Ride in a Pack.” Look there for other helpful advice. But bicyclists frequently trade pace, as it’s called, even when touring or during a day ride. The front rider works harder to overcome wind resistance while the other riders trail closely behind, each in the slipstream of the rider ahead. In this way, all except the leader can reduce pedaling effort by 15-20 percent. Riders should agree on how long each shall remain in the lead position. Usually it’s for one minute, or for 0.25 miles on their computer, or for 100 pedal revolutions. After that, the leader turns left and drops back to the rear of the paceline while the rider behind becomes the new leader. When riders in the paceline are unevenly matched, a weaker rider may stay in the lead for only 75 revolutions while a stronger rider may stay up front for 125 revolutions. On an average highway, up to 6 riders can ride in a paceline without inconveniencing traffic. If you ride in a paceline, always look back and check for overtaking cars before turning out and dropping back to the rear. Cornering Correctly Before making a turn, slow down to a safe speed. Always try to make the widest turn possible, traffic permitting, and avoid getting near a curb. Lean inward in the direction of the turn. And for better traction and stability, slide back a bit towards the rear of the saddle. When freewheeling around any bend or curve, always raise the inside pedal and lower the outside pedal. This prevents the inside pedal from possibly touching the ground or curb. It’s also best to avoid shifting gears during a turn as it could cause an imbalance. Keep Those Pedals Spinning Briskly Spinning the pedals briskly in lower gears at a cadence of 60-90 r.p.m. or more is the secret of successful bicycling. If you ride in higher gears and fail to maintain a brisk pedaling cadence, you may experience fatigue, muscle strain, and knee problems. I’ve found that almost every novice who experiences knee problems is actually grinding away in big gears and pedaling at a cadence of 50 r.p.m. or less. By spinning at 80 r.p.m. instead, you reduce the pressure on pedals and knees by almost half at each revolution. The trick is to get into a pedaling rhythm you can stay with (in the 60-90 r.p.m. range or higher) and then maintain that same rhythm by shifting gears to match changing conditions of wind and terrain. The closer you are to 90 r.p.m. rather than 60 r.p.m., the better. Fast spinning prevents knee and joint problems. Almost all touring riders stay within a range of 65-95 r.p.m., and they maintain a steady, even style. If spinning feels strange or difficult, first get used to riding at 60 r.p.m. Then gradually get used to spinning faster, in 5 r.p.m. increments, until you feel comfortable above 80 r.p.m. Only by riding briskly on a multi-geared bicycle with a wide range of gears can you anticipate all the health benefits described earlier. You can’t spin the pedals briskly enough on a 3- or 5-speed bicycle, or on one with a narrow gear range. And you must cycle where you can make long, uninterrupted rides. Riding on bike paths or around the neighborhood bestows few health or fitness benefits. Shifting Gears—Smart, Fast, Crisp To shift gears on a derailleur bicycle you must keep pedaling. During the moment of actual shifting, ease up on pedal pressure. Known as soft-pedaling, this technique means that you maintain only enough pressure to keep the pedals spinning. Immediately after you click into gear, resume the pressure. However, on bicycles equipped with the Hyperglide shifting system, you can shift the rear derailleur under full pedaling load, while the Superglide system lets you shift chainrings also while under full pedaling load. Unlike a 3-speed, you cannot shift derailleur gears once the bicycle has stopped. Nor should you ever backpedal while shifting derailleur gears. Among recent innovations are combined gearshift and brake levers mounted on the handlebars side by side. However, most road bikes still have the gearshift levers on the downtube while mountain bikes have a single lever on each side of the handlebar. On a road bike you must remove one hand from the handlebar to shift. Practice shifting the levers while keeping your eyes on the road. You will soon be able to shift by feel without looking down. It’s OK to glance down at the drive train for a second. Most riders have to, from time to time, to check on which chainring and cogs they are actually in. But get your eyes back on the road as soon as you can. With downtube shifters you can shift only one lever at a time. For a double shift you must first move the left lever to shift the chainring, then move the right lever to shift the cog. Each rider has his or her own preference for accomplishing this. Some use the right hand to move both levers. Others use the right hand for the right lever and the left hand for the left lever. With a small frame or large tubes you may have to use the latter system. On a mountain bike you can shift both levers simultaneously by flicking your thumbs. Indexed shifting makes all gear changing easier and smoother. Usually only the rear derailleur is indexed. But it allows you to click into exactly the right cog setting immediately. By comparison, with friction shifting, you must shift by feel and it’s all too easy to overshift or undershift. Although you can adjust for this immediately, it still means that friction shifting takes slightly longer. Mastering the Basics In Section 3 I recommended using a crankset with triple chainrings. If you have three chainrings, use the smallest for climbing hills or riding into headwinds, the middle chainring for generally flat riding, and the large chainring for riding downhill or with a tailwind. The cogs are used the opposite way. The largest cogs are for climbing hills or slopes or for riding against a headwind, and the smallest cogs are for descending hills or for riding on the flat with a tailwind. If you have not already done so, make a grid chart for the gearing on your bicycle as described in Section 3. A grid chart shows exactly where your gears are located. And by glancing down at the drive train, you can immediately identify which development you are in. On most bikes 70 percent of your pedaling can be done without shifting from the middle chainring. You need shift chainrings only if you require a development higher or lower than is available on the middle chainring. You’ll notice that the steps (difference in number of teeth) between the cogs is smaller than between the chainrings. Thus in selecting which gear to use, you choose the chainring first. You can then make smaller adjustments by changing cogs. For uphill riding select the small chainring and a large cog. For a very steep hill, shift to the largest cog. For level riding select the middle chainring and a medium-sized cog. For descending a slope, or riding with the wind at your back, select the largest chainring and a smaller cog. To become adept at shifting gears, start off in the middle chainring and practice moving the rear derailleur onto each of the cogs in turn. After you acquire dexterity with the right lever, then practice shifting chainrings with the left lever. Finally, practice some double shifts. Derailleur Gears Run Silently Once shifted onto the selected cog and chainring, derailleur gears should run silently. However, with friction shifting, a rattling sound indicates that the right gearshift lever needs a slight adjustment. With a properly adjusted indexed shifting system, the cogs should always run noiselessly. A scraping sound indicates that the chain is rubbing against the front derailleur cage. A small adjustment to the left lever will restore silence. Moving from a smaller to a larger cog, or vice versa, may cause enough chain deflection to require an adjustment to the left lever. Since derailleur gears cannot be shifted once the bike has stopped, always shift down into a larger cog before you stop riding. You will then be able to start off again in a comfortably low gear. Conquer Hills with Good Technique Most novices regard hill climbing as their biggest obstacle. True, it does take a little more effort, energy, and stamina to pedal uphill. But what counts most is good technique. If you keep your pedals spinning briskly in low gears, you will not only learn to conquer hills. You will actively seek out rides with the longest, most challenging hills, for you have to ride up hills to enjoy the most dramatic scenery. All the most scenic tours traverse hills. Thus to go on an extended tour you must be able to climb hills, any reasonable hill, that is, without walking. There’s no scenery, fun, or challenge in riding on the flatlands. The secret of climbing hills is to select a low gear that is comfort able and provides a rhythm that you can stay with indefinitely without getting out of breath or fatigued. On a long, steep hill you will probably have to use your lowest development and your cadence may temporarily drop below 60 r.p.m. But don’t be ashamed to use a “granny” gear. You will probably pass others with higher gears who are walking. If you have to shift down to a 21” or 19” development, you may think you could get off and walk uphill almost as fast. But pedaling is more efficient and besides, you’re cycling not “hikeling.” To get off and walk could ruin the tremendous feeling of achievement, mastery, and success that you’ll experience by pedaling all the way to the top. So keep on pedaling up every hill you can find. Soon, you’ll be able to ride up any hill of any length. And you can go anywhere without giving hills a second thought. The secret of climbing hills is to select a low gear that is comfortable and provides a rhythm you can stay with. Twelve Successful Hill Riding Strategies 1. The main secret of climbing hills is to shift into a lower gear the instant you feel resistance on the pedals. Don’t wait until you’re pedaling hard up the hill. However, if you’re traveling fast as you approach the foot of the hill, stay in high gear and use your momentum to carry you up the hill as you continue to pedal. As you go up, anticipate the climbing gear you will need to shift into. Now, as your momentum slows— and as soon as you feel the resistance of the hill — briefly ease up on pedal pressure and shift into a smaller chainring. Then, with the last of your momentum, shift into a larger cog. 2. If approaching the foot of a hill at slow speed, shift into a smaller chainring the moment you feel resistance on the pedals and just before the climb begins. And don’t wait until the last second to shift into a larger cog. If you wait too long, it may be difficult to shift when the drive train is under climbing load. 3. While climbing a hill, it’s appreciably easier to shift onto a smaller cog than onto a larger cog. So when you shift down and begin to climb, try to shift onto a cog one size larger than you estimate you will need. Then if the climb proves easier than you anticipated, you can easily shift up into a slightly higher gear by moving on to the next smallest cog. (Remember, the smaller the cog, the higher the gear.) It’s much easier to shift up to a higher gear (smaller cog) while climbing than it is to try and shift down to a lower gear (larger cog). For that reason, you should never start up a hill in a high gear in the hope of shifting to a lower gear during the climb. 4. Try to get a running start up all hills, especially in rolling country. As soon as you reach the crest of a hill and pedaling becomes easier, shift into a higher gear and maintain your cadence while pedaling downhill (If you prefer, you can coast down and take a rest.) Either way, try to build up speed on the downhill leg. This will give you ample momentum to carry you halfway up the next hill as you keep pedaling. As you lose momentum, shift quickly into a lower gear and pedal your way to the top. Repeat it all at the next roller coaster descent. Be prepared to shift frequently. 5. It takes less energy to climb a hill when seated and spinning a lower gear than it does to stand on the pedals. As anyone who has watched bicycle races may have noticed, most racers do not go down on the drops to climb. Nor do many experienced touring riders. Instead, they place their fingers on top of the handlebar (top bar), or on the brake hoods, with their hands wide apart and elbows flexed. This position allows you to slide back in the saddle and to pull back on your arms to boost the power of each pedal stroke. In turn, this allows you to keep the back bent at a 45° angle which brings into play the big muscles in the buttocks and lower back. Even on a mountain bike, you’ll climb better by crouching over at a 45° angle. By contrast, if you sit in a more upright position while climbing, you bring into play the slightly less powerful thigh muscles rather than the stronger muscles in the lower back and buttocks. On a long climb, however, it is preferable to change positions so that you can stress a new set of muscles while the muscles you’ve just been using rest and recover. Thus on long hills, most riders alternate positions. After riding with their hands on the top bar or brake hoods, they switch to riding crouched down on the drops, then spend a shorter period in a more upright position, and finally do a few revolutions while standing on the pedals. However, the majority of time is spent with the hands on the top bar or brake hoods. If you’re using toeclips and straps — and you should be — push down and forward from the top of the pedal stroke, then pull up and back as the pedal rises. As you become a more proficient hill climber you may be able to use slightly higher gears. 6. “Honking,” or standing on the pedals to climb a hill, is too physically demanding for most mature riders and quickly leads to breathlessness. Even many racers prefer to sit down and spin lower gears for as long as possible before beginning to honk. However, it’s OK to stand up and pedal for a short distance, or for a change of pace, or if you’re on a short, steep hill and it’s too late to shift. To honk, you need to push a gear higher than you would while sitting. Place the hands on the brake lever hoods, stand up, and allow the bike to rock from side to side as you stand first on one pedal and then on the other. 7. To climb a steep hill on a mountain bike, sit down as much as possible and keep the saddle at optimum height. Hold the handlebar grips lightly and keep looking ahead to select a route clear of rocks or logs so that you won’t be stopped. On very steep slopes your front wheel may lift off the ground. To prevent this, slide forward on the saddle and also lean forward. If the rear tire begins to slide, slide backward on the saddle. If both occur together, you must lower your center of gravity by leaning forward and sliding back in the saddle simultaneously. 8. When pedaling up a long hill, avoid looking for the top. Many long hills have false summits. As you reach what you think is the top, you see yet another uphill stretch ahead. Concentrate instead on reaching a tree or telephone post or other landmark about a quarter-mile ahead, or on covering 0.25 miles on your computer. Focus your attention on maintaining a correct riding style with shoulders wide apart and head held high. That way you can enjoy the scenery while you hum a tune and congratulate yourself on having done so well so far. On a hairpin bend, or on any uphill curve, you can make the grade easier by riding as near as possible to the outside of the curve. If there is no traffic about, and none is likely, you can ride the outside of the curve, even if it means riding on the far left side of the road. But if there is any likelihood of traffic, stay in your lane while riding as closely as you can to the outside of the curve. 9. Don’t hesitate to take short rests. While climbing, I often rest for one minute in every 5, or for 3 minutes in every 15, or for six minutes during every half hour. But limit rest stops while climbing to a maximum of 10 minutes. To get on again, get astride the bike, place one foot in the toeclip, and start off. Place the other foot on the underside of the pedal and generate a quick burst of speed. Use this momentum to insert your other foot in the toeclip — unnecessary, of course, with clipless pedals. Some riders prefer to face downhill, mount the bike, push off, and position both toeclips; they then turn around and begin climbing once more. 10. Stay under control when descending a long grade. Be able to stop within 40 yards. Unless you’re in a race, I recommend staying at under 30 m.p.h. A deer or a dog could dash out, or you could be moving too fast to stay in your lane during a turn. Watch for rocks, loose gravel, cattle guards, obstructions, and vehicles. Try to anticipate where you’ll need to brake and slow down gradually. Always slow before entering a curve. By sitting upright you can create more wind resistance to slow you down. If you must brake on a long descent, pump the brakes alternately to prevent overheating or fading. Apply the rear brake gently for 3 seconds, then release and simultaneously apply the front brake gently for 3 seconds. Be extra careful if the road is wet. If you skid, steer into the skid and pedal to accelerate. Allow more stopping distance when it’s raining. Whenever you need more braking power, squeeze the rear brake harder. Never slam on the front brake. If you must apply the front brake hard, slide back toward the rear of the saddle. Grasp the brake levers firmly and apply pressure evenly with both hands. 11. On many hills you can coast or freewheel down without having to brake. To do so, shift into a higher gear and keep your hands near the brake levers. If you need more speed, you can “tuck in” to decrease wind resistance. Slide back on the saddle and crouch down over the handlebars with hands near the brake levers, with knees and elbows drawn close in to the body, and with cranks horizontal. 12. Even in cold weather you can perspire while climbing a long hill. If you then face a long descent down the other side in cold weather, stop and pull on an extra sweater, windbreaker, and gloves. Otherwise you can become uncomfortably cold on the way down and you can experience hypothermia. Next: Optimize Your Energy Balance and Stamina — and Overcome Fatigue Prev: Bicycling as a Young and Healthy Lifestyle top of page |
Modified: Wednesday, November 15, 2023 3:48 PM PST