Selecting a Good Bicycle -- Strategy and Criteria

Finding a good bike shop -- whether locally or even excellent online choices such as PerformanceBike.com and Bike Nashbar -- with a helpful, knowledgeable staff is a first step in selecting your bike and equipment. The staff should encourage you to explain your cycling experience and goals in detail, and should ask many questions. They should have the capabilities to fit you properly on your new bike. If a shop can’t or won’t provide this level of service, find another shop within driving distance.

Your relationship with the bike shop should be a two-way street. The shop provides valuable services at a fair rate, including objective purchasing advice, mechanical repairs, assistance with warranty issues, advice on riding and racing, and in formation about local clubs and events. Shops also provide a social atmosphere where cyclists meet and talk about riding. In return, you owe them your loyal business. Give it to them and they'll bend over backward to meet your needs, such as when you need a repair done ASAP.

You may be able to save a few dollars purchasing equipment through online retailers, but they cannot maintain your bike. Of course, you must be guided by your personal economics, and if you have excellent mechanical skills, you may be able to get by largely on your own.

Selecting and Purchasing (if you can pick locks, "no purchase necessary")

Choosing a bike can be daunting. There are different frame types, materials, and geometries, and different component groups. Your choice will depend on your riding needs, the fit and feel of the bike, and how much you are willing to spend.

Cost & Warranty

A new bike that is appropriate for serious riding with an eye toward performance can cost any where from $600 to more than $6,000. You could purchase a $90 bike from a discount store, but we advise against it. Such mass-produced bikes are OK for riding short distances around the neighborhood but won’t hold up on long rides. They’re have a heavy frame and low-end components and don’t have sealed bearings. They don’t perform well straight off the shelf or over the long haul and are subject to continuous mechanicals (mechanical breakdowns) that will quickly add up to more money than the bike is worth. Keep in mind that you will also need accessories, and they can add up. Go in with a set spending limit and stick to it.

Price and weight are inversely related in bicycles. Making frames and other components light as well as strong involves more precise work and higher-quality materials. The old saying " you get what you pay for” applies, but you don’t need to spend a fortune. It’s cheaper to lose weight off your body than off the bike, and some bikes in the $600 to $1,400 range offer excellent quality.

Many companies provide a lifetime frame warranty; others offer five-to twenty-five-year warranties. (Parts usually have a one-year warranty.)Warranties typically cover manufacturer defects but not damage due to crashes, although some companies offer a "crash replacement” warranty under which they will replace a crashed frame for much less than its retail cost. In my experience as a bike shop manager, all of the manufacturers were really good about honoring their warranties.

New vs. Used

First, here are some excellent second-hand bikes (or frames) that may provide some savings in the hugely overpriced retail-bicycle marketplace. If you have any doubts that, For example, “older” CR-MO-technology steel frames are antiquated you may be in for a surprise. (a) Many custom (and high-$) frame builders of today still use CR-MO. (b) CR-MO has continued to evolve (and improve); just as newer aluminum and carbon-fiber concurrently co-evolve. Older CR-MO frames from reputable brands and specific models (and or years of manuf.) fetch high-$ in the used marketplace. E.g. Panasonic, Raleigh , Fuji , Peugeot, etc.

As with cars, there are pros and cons to buying a used bike. The potential upside, of course, is that you can get more bike for your money. On the downside, you may be buying someone else's problems. Before buying a used bike, have it inspected to ensure that the components are in working order and the frame is not corroded, cracked, or otherwise damaged.

At the high end of the price range, we recommend buying new so you're covered by warranty.

Recently, a fatigue crack opened up in one of my high-end frames after four years of riding. The manufacturer replaced the frame with a new model that was better than the original.

If you are in the market for a used bike, here are three good places to look:

._Many bike shops sell used bikes they have acquired through trade or on consignment.

They will ensure that the bike is in working order and may back it with a limited warranty.

._Many clubs post classified ads on their websites or pass information by word of mouth.

._Of all the places to buy used bikes on the Internet, eBay and Craig’s List seem to have the widest selection and the safest means of purchasing. Also check out private sales on bike forums, like BikeForums.net. You probably won’t be able to examine the bike before buying it, and you will need to know your frame size in the specific brand you are considering.

Buying a Stock Bike vs. Building Your Own (aka DIY)

Most bikes are bought off the showroom floor, but some cyclists dream of buying a bare frame, choosing each component individually, and assembling the bike themselves or having a local shop do it for them. This occasionally makes sense for advanced riders who are familiar with various components and have particular preferences.

For most riders, however, building your own bike is impractical. Bike manufacturers usually do an excellent job of specifying appropriate components for different types of bikes in different price ranges. Because they buy components in large quantities, they receive deep discounts. You would probably add $200 to $800 to the cost of a bike by purchasing the frame and identical components individually. My advice is to buy the stock bike, and have the shop swap out any individual components you want to change.

BICYCLE FRAME

The frame is the heart of the bike and the greatest single determinant of its quality and performance.

Although every component can be replaced, if you replace the frame you’ve got a new bike. No amount of component replacement will make a good bike from a lousy frame (although it’s possible to turn a good frame into a lousy bike with poor components).

Frame Geometries

Frame geometry deals with the length and angle of the tubes. It affects the bike’s ride quality, steering quickness, and handling.

Road Racing

Racing bikes have a steep head-tube angle, usually between 73 and 74 degrees from the horizontal. This makes the steering responsive and maneuverable. To beginners, this feels "twitchy," but given time, most riders become accustomed to the feel. The seat-tube angle is also usually 73 to 74 degrees, placing the rider over the pedals, allowing for efficient transfer of energy, and promoting an aerodynamic position on the bike. These frames are also designed to be stable at high speeds and stiff in a sprint. A short wheelbase also lends itself to increased maneuverability.

Touring

Touring bikes are designed to be stable at slower speeds, to carry gear, and to provide greater com fort than race bikes. With a shallower head tube angle of 71 to 72 degrees, touring frames have slower, more stable steering than race bikes, which makes it possible to attach panniers and carry cargo. The seat tube angle is also 71 to 72 degrees, allowing for a more comfortable upright position. Touring bikes usually have a longer wheelbase than race bikes, which makes for slower steering but increased stability.

Sport

Sport bikes fall between racing and touring bikes.

These frames are a little more comfortable than racing frames, have slightly relaxed handling, and pro mote a more upright position for riders for whom speed is not the sole criterion. The head tube and seat tube angles are 72 to 73 degrees. These bikes are a good choice for beginning riders and riders who are more concerned with comfort than speed but won’t be doing extensive touring with heavy gear. Sport bikes usually have a longer wheelbase for stability.

A friend bought a serious race bike with a head-tube angle of 73 degrees, a rake of 45 mm, and a short chain stay. It was a good bike, but he could not get comfortable on it. As a cyclist, his goal is participating in century rides, and he has no interest in racing.

[4] The anatomy of a road bike.

[5] Road-racing frames are designed to be very responsive and maneuverable. (Cannondale); Touring bikes are designed to provide a comfortable and stable ride. ( Fuji ): rake (offset of axle from steering axis); he ad tube angle

[6] Time-trial bikes are designed to give an aerodynamic advantage when riding exposed to the wind, outside of a pace line. ( Fuji ); Compact-geometry frames differ from traditional frames in that they have a sloping top tube. ( Fuji)

[7] Women-specific bikes are designed to better fit the average woman’s proportions.

He soon sold the racer and bought a sport bike with a head-tube angle of 72 degrees, a rake of 49 mm, and a longer chain stay. The bike positions him in a more comfortable, upright posture that he can maintain for hours. It’s not a better bike, but it’s better suited to his needs.

Time Trial

Time-trial frames are designed to give an aero dynamic advantage to riders in races where they cannot draft. The seat-tube angle ranges from 73 to 78 degrees, with the steeper angles promoting the most aerodynamic posture.

Steeper, however, isn’t always better.

Research has shown that cyclists adapt to and perform optimally in one particular position. So if you want to do time trials in addition to other events, choose a time-trial frame with a seat tube angle similar to the one on the bike you normally ride.

The Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI), the governing body of international bicycle racing, and the United States Cycling Federation (USCF) have strict guidelines for bike geometry. According to UCI rules, the nose of the saddle must be at least five (5) centimeters behind the bottom-bracket spindle, effectively limiting the seat-tube angle to a maxi mum of about 76 degrees. The UCI also requires that frames be of the conventional double-diamond style, with a seat tube that connects to the bottom bracket.

USA Triathlon (USAT), the governing body of triathlon and “du-athlon” in the United States , has no such specifications. Many triathlon bikes have a seat-tube angle as steep as 78 degrees, and some companies have developed aerodynamic frames that don’t have a seat tube that connects to the bottom bracket. Although these bikes are illegal in time trials, they are well accepted in triathlons.

If you plan to compete in time trials and triathlons, make sure the bike is time-trial legal.

Traditional vs. Compact Frames

Compact frames are also known as sloping-tube geometries because the top tube slopes down to the rear. (On a traditional frame, it’s horizontal.)The head-tube and seat-tube angles are similar in traditional and compact geometries, although compact frames have a slightly smaller rear triangle (formed by the chain stay, seat stay, and seat tube).

Nearly half of professional cycling teams now ride compact geometry. The other half doesn’t. So what’s the story? Is one better than the other? In practice, the two geometries produce equivalent results. On both types of frame, you contact the bike at three points: the saddle, handlebars, and pedals .and you set up the bike the same way.

With compact geometry you get a larger range of adjustment with the seat post. Some manufacturers have responded by producing only three or four frame sizes, which may leave a few riders to fall through the cracks, but most companies produce compact frames in the same range of eight or so sizes comparable to traditional-geometry bikes.

(The effective top-tube length of a compact-geometry bike is measured horizontally, not along the tube, and is the same as on a traditional frame.) Some cyclists claim that the smaller rear tri angle of a compact frame makes the bike stiffer, but manufacturers that carefully select good materials can engineer the desired degree of stiffness in either type of frame. It’s also claimed that com pact frames are lighter, but if you add in the extra weight of the longer seat post, there is no notice able difference.

Women-Specific Geometries

Recently, companies such as Cannondale, Trek, and Specialized have introduced lines of road bikes designed specifically for women. Recognizing that men and women have different proportions, the companies changed frame geometry and components accordingly. A woman’s torso tends to be shorter, so the top-tube length is shorter to make it easier to reach the handlebars. Whereas most road bikes have 700C wheels, some of the smaller women’s frames come with 650C wheels, for a shorter stand-over height.

Handlebars have been narrowed for narrow shoulders and the diameter of the tube is thinner, and the shift levers are shorter for smaller hands.

Not all women need women-specific geometry.

Many taller women fit better on bikes with standard geometry, and some men and children fit better on "women’s” bikes. The choice of geometry should be determined by your body, not your gender.

Frame Materials

Frames are usually made of steel, aluminum, titanium, or carbon fiber. A few companies build frames using combinations of materials. Each material has advantages and disadvantages, but there can be big differences in quality among frames built from the same material. A $150 steel frame, For example, is much heavier, has a poorer ride quality, and won’t last as long as a $1,500 steel frame.

Steel

Modern steel frames are lighter and stronger than their predecessors. The steel lugs that used to hold the tubes together have been replaced with TIG welded joints, and the walls of the tubes are of varying thickness to eliminate excess weight. Even the metallurgy of the steel itself has improved.

Steel frames have a comfortable ride quality, but they flex during sprints and climbing. Thin-walled tubes have a tendency to dent easily, and steel is subject to rust. To help increase the life of your steel frame, coat the inside with a rust inhibitor on a regular basis. Finally, there is something to be said about the classic feel and look of a steel frame.

Titanium

The most expensive frame material, titanium pro vides a comfortable ride similar to that of steel, but it’s much lighter. It has a longer fatigue life than steel and aluminum, but it tends to flex more than aluminum or carbon fiber during sprints. Titanium does not rust and does not need to be painted; nor does the inside need to be coated against rust.

Aluminum

Aluminum is stiffer and lighter than steel and is the least expensive choice for a lightweight bike of good quality. It’s possible to buy a new aluminum-frame bike that weighs 22 to 23 pounds for $500 to $900. Steel frame bikes in that weight range typically cost 30 to 50% more. Although most aluminum bikes cost less than those made of titanium, aluminum is lighter at the same price level. The downside of its stiffness is a rough ride, although this can be partially compensated for by a high-quality carbon fiber fork, seat post, and handlebars. Aluminum frames don’t rust and have the shortest fatigue life of any frame material, with a life expectancy of 5 to 10 years.

Carbon Fiber

Early versions of carbon fiber frames used carbon fiber tubing joined by aluminum lugs. Although these were not successful, recent advances have resulted in the lightest, strongest, and most comfortable frames available. Most frames built now use a nearly undetectable carbon fiber lug; others are made in a single piece in molds.

Carbon fiber is the choice of many pro riders; it produces a comfortable ride that is stiff in a sprint. When you apply pressure to the pedals, the bike responds immediately; you can feel it accelerate smoothly and quickly.

Carbon fiber has the longest fatigue life of any frame material. The downside is that carbon fiber frames are expensive.

All frame materials have advantages and disadvantages. We ride a carbon frame, which we think is the most comfortable and responsive material. Other riders prefer steel, saying it allows them to feel the road better. You will need to ride bikes with each material to determine which you like best. Many bike shops have demo bikes that you can use to determine your preference.

Butted Tubes

Conventional metal tubing has a constant wall thickness and is known as plain-or straight-gauge tubing. In steel, aluminum, and titanium frames of higher quality, the inside diameter of the tubing wall varies along its length; the tubing walls are thicker at the ends, where additional strength is needed, and thinner in the middle to save weight.

These are known as butted tubes. (As a composite material, carbon fiber lends itself to continuous variation in thickness and reinforcement.) Tube butting appears in three basic formats:

._ Single butted. The tube wall is thicker at one end and uniformly thinner throughout the rest of its length.

._ Double butted. The tube is the same thickness at both ends and uniformly thinner between them.

._ Triple butted. Both ends are thicker than the middle, but one end is thinner than the other. The middle is of uniform thickness.

Butted tubing is mainly used in the seat tube, down tube, and top tube. The downside to butted tubing is that the middle of the tubes is more susceptible to denting and fatigue. It’s also more ex pensive than plain-gauge tubing.

Frame Aerodynamics

Traditional frames have round tubing and are ideal for climbing or flat stages. Although they lack any aerodynamic advantage, they are much lighter than aero frames and generally more comfortable.

When riding in a peloton (a tightly bunched group of cyclists), there is little need for an aerodynamic frame; weight when climbing is a greater concern.

Aerodynamic frames are used during time trials. The seat tube, down tube, head tube, and in some cases the seat stays are "bladed" (foil shaped) to reduce wind resistance. Aero frames are heavier and often less comfortable than traditional frames, but these liabilities are largely negated by the aerodynamic advantages in time trials.

Semi-aero frames combine the best of both types, being lighter than aero frames and more aerodynamic than traditional ones. Semi-aero frames are good for fat, fast race stages and up hill time trials and are beneficial in long breakaways during road races.

COMPONENTS & GROUPS

Component "groups" consist of shifters, derailleurs, brakes, crankset, and rear cassette. (Several other components, including the wheels, seat post, and handlebars, are equally important but are not considered part of the "group ".)Two main suppliers, Shimano and Campagnolo, have dominated the market for high-quality component groups for years, but in 2007 they were joined by a new company, SRAM, whose line has been meeting with good acceptance. (The Ref. section lists web sites for all companies cited in the text.) All three companies make good products in a variety of quality and price levels, as shown in the table below. Part of choosing a bike is considering the quality level of the component group you are willing to pay for, and deciding whether you have a preference among the manufacturers.

Keep in mind that as long as you have a well made frame, you can upgrade components later as they wear out or your budget allows. If this is your plan, make sure the frame you buy is worth upgrading later.

[9] Traditional tubing is round in cross section. It’s strong and lightweight. (Cannondale); Aerodynamic, or bladed, tubing is foil shaped to provide an aerodynamic advantage.

[Table of COMPONENT GROUPS BY MANUFACTURER -- Components are separated by manufacturer and ranked from good to best. As you move from good to best (top to bottom), the reliability and durability of the components increases. Not all manufacturers produce components at every level; component groups have been lined up with their closest competitors at that level. Note that as quality increases so does the price.

Price Quality Shimano Campagnolo SRAM

Medium Good Sora Xenon -Tiagra Mirage -105 Veloce - -Centaur Rival Ultega Chorus Force High Best Dura-Ace Record Red]

Headset

Headsets contain bearings that hold the fork firmly in place and allow you to steer the bike smoothly.

Headsets vary in diameter. Older bikes have 1-inch headsets, newer ones have 1 1/8-inch head sets, and in 2007 a trend started toward headsets that are 1 1/8 inches at the top and 1 f inches at the bottom.

New bikes have either external or integrated headsets. External headsets, which were the industry standard until around 2003, have cups de signed to accept the bearings, which extend above and below the head tube.

Integrated headsets are becoming the new standard. The bike’s head tube is designed to accept one of two basic types of integrated headsets: those with internal cups and those without cups. Internal cups fit inside the head tube; the second type places the bearings directly in the head tube, which is machined to accept the bearings without adding cups.

Older bikes have a third type, in which the top-bearing cup was screwed onto the top end of the fork and clamped the system into place. The newer threadless systems perform much better.

[10] The headset is located at the top and bottom of the head tube and has bearings so the steerer tube can move smoothly.

Stem and Handlebars

The stem connects the fork to the handlebars, which provides two main functions. The obvious one is steering. The second is to support the weight of the rider’s upper body. Additionally, the handlebars provide convenient mounting points for brake and shift levers.

A large amount of stress is placed on the handlebars and stem, especially when the rider stands to sprint or climb. Handlebars usually last only three to five years. Check your bar and stem frequently for corrosion and cracks, and replace them after a hard crash involving the front end of the bike. If either fails during a ride, it can be catastrophic.

Handlebars come in different widths, materials, shapes, and diameters. Determining the correct width is covered in Section 2 (Fitting the Bike to Your Body).Most high-quality bars are made from aluminum or carbon fiber. Carbon damps road vibration but is more expensive. Different shapes affect hand placement and comfort; the only way to determine what works best for you is to try a variety of styles. Two diameters are common: standard (26.0 mm) and oversized (31.8 mm).The stem clamp and bar diameter must be the same.

Stems also come in different materials, lengths, and angles. The choice of material is based on personal preference. Length and angle are determined by fit, which is discussed in Section 2.

[11] Selecting the proper saddle is essential for comfort.

Because no one saddle fits everyone, choose carefully. Various types of seat posts: in line (A), setback (B), and aero (C).

Saddle

Choosing the correct saddle can make the difference between a comfortable ride and a ride from hell. The more time you log in the saddle, the more important comfort becomes. No one type of saddle can be recommended for all cyclists, however, because riders have different bottoms, different riding styles, and different ideas of what’s comfortable.

One common misconception is that wide, heavily padded saddles are more comfortable. This is usually not the case, because more material between your legs can cause chafe and interfere with the free movement of your pelvis, upper leg bones, and muscles. You may find a relatively hard, thin saddle more comfortable, once you get used to it. Many newer saddles have the middle cut out completely or lowered, creating a channel to reduce the pressure on the nether regions. Buying the wrong saddle can be an expensive mistake; that’s why many shops have demo saddles to try.

Seat Post

Most seat posts are made of aluminum, titanium, or carbon fiber. If you are riding an aluminum bike, I highly recommend a carbon fiber post to dampen road vibrations.

Some seat posts position the saddle directly in line with the seat tube; others have a setback. The seat post should allow you to properly adjust your seat fore and aft. The process of fitting your bike (see Section 2) will determine which one you need.

Aero posts are designed in a foil shape to de crease drag and improve aerodynamics. Most bikes with aerodynamic seat tubes will come with an aero seat post specifically designed to fit that particular frame. These posts won’t be interchangeable from frame to frame.

[12a Clipless pedal systems provide a solid connection between the cyclist and the bike.]

[12b The crankset is an important part of the drivetrain.]

Pedal Systems and Cleats

Clipless pedals attach your feet firmly to the pedals by means of cleats that are permanently attached to the sole of your cycling shoes. To "lock" yourself in, you simply step down on the pedal; you release your foot by twisting your heel slightly to the outside. Clipless pedals have entirely supplanted the use of toe clips and straps among serious riders.

Clipless pedals help you pedal more smoothly by allowing you to pull up and through the pedal stroke, decreasing the amount of weight that the opposite leg must lift as it pushes down on the other side. Clipless pedals also eliminate any loss of power that might occur due to your foot slipping off the pedal, and they provide a stable connection between your body and the bike, promoting better control in cornering and during high-speed descents.

Many riders who are concerned with bike weight prefer the smallest pedals possible, but I prefer a slightly heavier pedal with a wider platform. This distributes the force over a wider area and eliminates "hot spots” on your feet. SPD (Shimano Pedaling Dynamics) pedals use a cleat that is recessed in the shoe, making for easier walking, but the surface area of the pedal is small; in my opinion they are not appropriate for road bikes.

They are, however, an excellent choice for the sport they were designed for mountain biking.

The first clipless pedals locked the cyclist’s feet rigidly in one position on the pedals. This put a lot of strain on the knees and led to many overuse injuries. This problem was corrected in later models by adding "float," a design feature that allows your foot to take a more natural position and move slightly throughout the pedal stroke. Some pedals even allow you to adjust the float to suit your needs.

After you become accustomed to clipless pedals, you will find they are faster and thus safer to get in and out of than straps. They do, however, take some getting used to. Some new users have a tendency to stop before they are unclipped, and to pull up instead of twisting out of the pedals, resulting in embarrassing falls while stopped. Before you take to the road, practice getting in and out of the pedals by setting up the bike in a stationary trainer or leaning it against a wall. Remember to unclip one foot before you stop the bike by twisting your heel outboard. And lean to the side you are unclipped on.

Crankset

The crankset consists of the chainrings (the front sprockets) and the crank arms (to which the pedals are attached).Cranksets are available with two or three chainrings, and double-chainring cranksets are available in standard and compact versions. Different crank-arm lengths are also available; these are discussed in Section 2.

Double cranksets usually come with a large chainring of 52 or 53 teeth and a small chainring of 39 or, more rarely, 42 teeth. Triple cranksets usually come with chainrings of 52 or 53, 39 or 42, and 30 teeth.

With a few exceptions, double cranksets are best. They shift more smoothly, require less adjusting, and weigh less.

The 30-tooth chainring on a triple crankset allows for a lower gear ratio, which makes it easier to climb steep terrain. Triple chainrings are thus worthwhile for young riders, novices, and cyclists who live in mountainous areas.

Compact double cranksets have a 50-tooth chainring (large) and a 34-or 36-tooth chainring (small), which allows for easier climbing than a standard double crankset. Being a double, however, compacts have fewer shifting problems than triples. You will lose some of the higher gear ratios that a standard double or triple provides, but unless you are strongly competitive, this won’t greatly affect your riding. If given the choice between a compact and a triple, choose the former.

When compact cranks first emerged, there were compatibility problems with some derailleurs, but these have been eliminated in the newer models. If you are replacing an old standard-size crankset with a new compact, you may need to change your front derailleur for better shifting.

Bottom Bracket

The bottom bracket consists of a spindle (to which the crank arms attach) and bearings (which fit in the bottom-bracket "shell” of the frame and allow the spindle to turn smoothly).Different spindle designs work only with specific cranksets.

A new style of bottom bracket has its bearings mounted outboard of the frame, and the spindle is attached to the crankset. This design flexes less, is slightly lighter, and is much easier to install than the conventional style.

Cassettes

The rear cassette consists of 8 to 10 cogs on a ratcheting mechanism; the cassette attaches to the rear wheel hub. Older bikes have eight-or nine-speed cassettes; most newer bikes have ten-speed cassettes. Although eight or nine speeds is adequate, the additional cogs mean smaller steps between cogs, which makes it easier to maintain a steady cadence when shifting gears.

Cassettes come with different combinations of cogs. The most common ten-speed combinations are listed in the table below. For example, most 11-21 cassettes (first row of data) have cogs with 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 21 teeth.

A 12-23 cassette is a good all-around choice, useful on flat and rolling terrain. A wider 12-25 or 12-27 cassette is beneficial for climbing; a narrower 11-21 or 12-21 cassette is ideal for flat terrain. It’s a good idea to own more than one cassette, and to change cassettes to suit the conditions of your race or ride. How to determine gear ratios is discussed in Section 4, and how to change cassettes is discussed in Section 3.

[13] Cassette combinations can be changed to suit the terrain where you plan to ride. An 11-21 combination is ideal for flat terrain; a 12-25 combination is better suited for riding in the mountains.

Derailleurs

The front derailleur is responsible for shifting the chain between the chainrings. The chain passes through a simple metal cage. The mechanism consists primarily of a hinged parallelogram to push the chain left or right while maintaining a roughly constant vertical distance from the chain rings. The clamp on a clamp-on front derailleur fits around the seat tube, whereas the so-called "braze-on" type attaches with a bolt to a designated tab brazed onto the seat tube. Braze-ons are marginally lighter but are not an option for bikes lacking the mounting tab.

The rear derailleur is attached to a bracket on the right rear dropout (the casting that holds the rear axle at the end of the seat stay and chain stay) and is responsible for shifting the chain between cogs on the cassette. It too uses a hinged parallelogram, but it has a longer throw and incorporates two rollers in a spring-tensioned cage to maintain chain tension and eliminate slack as the chain is shifted onto larger or smaller cogs.

The various brands and models of derailleurs offer different features, but the similarities are greater than their differences. Selection is largely a matter of performance and "feel." Careful adjustment of all models (see Section 3) is critical.

[14a] The front derailleur shifts the chain between chainrings on the crankset.

[14b] The rear derailleur shifts the chain between the cogs on the rear cassette.

Brakes

Brakes consist of a caliper and two pads. Road calipers with dual pivots provide greater stopping power, although those with a single pivot are lighter.

(The old center-pull brakes have disappeared. All high-quality brakes are now of the side-pull style, with the cable coming in on one side.)Single-pivot calipers are usually found on older or low-end bikes, although some serious riders use a good single-pivot caliper on the back wheel, on the grounds that the rear brake is less effective in any case.

Brake cables need frequent adjustment, and brake pads are a regular-wear item that must be replaced frequently. See Section 3 for details.

Brake Levers and Shifters

In the past, shifters were located on the down tube, and you had to take one hand off the handle bars to shift gears. Brake levers were on the handlebars, where they were always convenient.

Modern levers combine braking and shifting, so your hands never have to leave the handlebars. The left lever operates the front brake and derailleur; the right lever operates the rear brake and derailleur.

(Remember the "R": right, rear.) Braking is the same on all levers: simply pull back. The method of shifting varies, however. Shimano uses the brake lever and a secondary lever behind the brake lever. To shift to a smaller gear, push the secondary lever inboard. To shift to a larger gear, shift the entire lever inboard. Campagnolo uses a secondary lever and a thumb lever; SRAM uses only a secondary lever. Some levers offer a degree of adjustability to accommodate smaller hands. Try them all to determine which one you prefer.

[15] Dual pivot brake calipers are common on all newer road bikes. Modern levers serve a dual purpose, allowing you to shift and brake without removing your hands from the levers or the handlebars.

Wheels

Wheels come in two basic sizes: 700C (the rim will actually measure 622 mm) and 650C (571 mm).Due to the varying sizes of tires, it’s rare that a 700C wheel-and-tire combination will measure 700 mm. (Most measure between 680 and 690 mm.)

For this reason, regard 700C and 650C as size designators. The larger 700C wheel is most common on road bikes, while the 650C wheel is mainly used on smaller bikes (such as women’s-specific) and some triathlon bikes.

There are three basic types of wheels: training wheels, race wheels, and aerodynamic wheels.

A sturdy wheel for training is known as a training wheel (not to be confused with the outrigger wheels on little kids’ bikes). They are heavy but durable and inexpensive. They usually have box-section aluminum rims and 32 to 36 spokes.

The hubs may or may not have sealed bearings.

(Sealed is better.) For racing, and especially for racing in hilly or mountainous regions, you want a set of light weight race wheels. These, too, generally have box-section aluminum or composite rims. The front wheels may have as few as 16 spokes, and the rear as few as 24. (Heavy riders will want higher spoke counts.)Race-quality hubs are lighter than those on training wheels and have sealed bearings. Race wheels are expensive; most are not durable enough for everyday training.

[16a] Training wheels are designed to take the rigors of everyday riding, but they’re heavier than race wheels.

[16b] Lightweight wheels are designed for racing, but they may not be durable enough for everyday riding.

Aerodynamic race wheels are designed for situations where you cannot draft, as in time trials. These wheels vary from a deep-dished aluminum or carbon fiber rim to a 3-spoke design made from composites to a full disc wheel. The deeply dished and disc-style wheels are slightly heavier than similarly priced non-aero race wheels, but most are still lighter than any training wheel and some midrange lightweight wheels. The downside to deep dished or disc wheels is that they play havoc on bike control in strong crosswinds. They are also expensive and produce a harsh ride.

The ideal situation is to have a wheel set in each category. If you can afford only one set, it should fall between training wheels and lightweight race wheels in terms of weight and durability; ideally it will have a V-section rim for decent aerodynamics.

Spokes may have a traditional round cross section or a "bladed" foil shape. Bladed spokes decrease drag and improve aerodynamics; round spokes are stronger. Bladed spokes can be difficult to true because you have to keep the blades facing the right direction. My advice is to choose traditional spokes for your training wheels and bladed spokes for your racing set.

Tires

The type of bike tires that you grew up with as a kid, with a separate inner tube, are known as clinchers.

They are inexpensive, durable, easy to repair and replace, and appropriate for training-wheel sets.

The maximum pressure typically ranges between 110 and 120 psi.

[17] Aerodynamic race wheels are designed to cut through the wind, giving the rider an aerodynamic advantage. These wheels come with deep-dished rims (right) or as a full disc, which is used only as a rear wheel (left).

Tubular tires, also known as glue-ons, sew ups, or, bizarrely, tubeless tires, are the main choice of professionals. They are light in weight and can be inflated to extremely high pressure (130 to 170 psi), which decreases rolling resistance. With a perfectly round cross section, they present a larger contact patch than clinchers at steep angles of lean and therefore provide better cornering grip. Furthermore, tubular rims are lighter than clincher rims.

The downside to tubulars is their cost and the difficulty of installation and repairs (see Section 3).

They are literally glued to the rim, and in case of flat, they must be pulled from the rim to reach and cut the stitches that hold them together. This reveals the very thin tube inside. After you patch the tube, you have to sew the tire back together with needle and thread and re-glue it to the rim, then wait for the glue to dry before using the wheel.(Tufo, a Canadian tire manufacturer, has formulated a glue tape that works better than any glue I have used, somewhat simplifying the process.) The process is so time consuming that it’s essential to carry a spare tire when you ride tubulars. In contrast, a clincher repair takes just a few minutes, and the patch kit weighs just ounces.

Bottom line: Train on clinchers for practicality, and race on tubulars for performance.

True tubeless tires, similar to tubeless automobile tires, have recently been introduced to road cycling. (They have been around for a while in mountain biking.)It can be difficult to get the bead to seat against the rim with an airtight seal, but once you get it, you can inflate these tires up to 180 psi.

OTHER GEAR

Sorry, but you’re not done spending money yet .not by a long shot. There is a whole pile of additional gear, most of which you wear, required to ride safely and comfortably.

Helmet

I recently went down at 27 mph in a group ride. During a sprint, the rider directly in front of me clipped the rear wheel of the man directly in front of him and went down. My front tire hit his bike. I flew over the handlebars, and the back of my head bounced off the pavement a few times before I came to a stop. While slightly dazed, I was able to ride away from the accident.

I was, of course, wearing a helmet, without which I would have been more than just dazed. It may not seem like a long fall from a bike, but it’s enough to crack your skull and cause brain damage.

A helmet is one of the most important accessories you can buy. Helmets have evolved over the past ten years and are now much lighter and not as hot.

When choosing a helmet, make sure it fits comfortably yet firmly. A helmet must be worn properly, with the straps snug and the front low enough to protect your forehead. Select one you like the looks of; if you think it makes you look dorky, you may not wear it.

[18] The wrong way to wear a helmet .pushed too far back on the head.

[19a] When the helmet is worn correctly, it covers a good portion of the forehead. Aerodynamic helmets reduce drag while protecting the head during a crash.

[19b] When choosing cycling shoes, comfort is just as important as performance. Select a comfortable shoe with a rigid sole and three closure straps. If a helmet makes contact with the ground or other object during a crash it should be replaced.

Even if the helmet appears to be undamaged the structural integrity may be compromised. Many helmet makers offer substantial discounts in what are known as crash replacement programs.

Helmets range in price from about $28 to $220. Both meet the government safety standards, but better helmets usually have a hard molded covering, lacking on the cheapest models, that offers better protection. As prices go up, weight goes down and ventilation improves. All of that said, even the cheapest helmets go a long way to ward keeping your head in one piece.

Until recently, time-trial helmets were de signed only to improve the aerodynamics of the rider’s head. Now, however, the USCF requires that they also provide crash protection.

Shoes & Socks

Comfort and fit are the most important considerations when buying a pair of cycling shoes. If they don’t fit properly, you’re in for a world of pain, and you can forget optimal power output.

Shoes should have stiff soles. The stiffer the sole, the greater the force that is transferred to the pedal and the less that is lost to flex. A flexible sole increases stress to the ligaments and tendons on the bottom of the feet, causing discomfort known as a "hot spot" and possibly leading to overuse injuries. The stiffest and longest-lasting sole material is carbon fiber. Nylon soles can be as stiff as carbon fiber initially, but they will eventually start to flex.

Uppers can be made from real or synthetic leather. Synthetic leather does not stretch and holds up much better to weather than real leather.

Strap closures are better than shoestrings, and three straps are much better than two. Mechanical ratcheting strap closures allow for a firm, comfortable fit, so the shoe won’t slip.

Shoe soles are drilled to hold the cleats that clip into the pedals. A three-bolt pattern is becoming standard, so most shoes are compatible with the majority of pedal systems on the market. Some shoe companies sell adapter plates to accommodate other patterns. Ask before you buy, though, to make sure the shoe is compatible with your pedals.

Cycling is a non-weight-bearing activity, so you don’t need socks with heavy cushioning on the sole; it only holds moisture. Choose a lightweight, breath able sock that wicks moisture away from your foot.

Clothing

Clothing for cycling has come a long way over the last twenty years. New materials such as CoolMax wick moisture away from the body and don’t become heavy with sweat or rainwater. These materials keep you cooler and are more aerodynamic and more comfortable than wool shorts and jerseys.

[20a] Cycling jerseys are made from material that wicks moisture away from the skin; the jerseys are designed to have a tight fit to reduce wind resistance.

[20b] A good pair of riding shorts can make the difference between an enjoyable ride and a miserable day in the saddle. Note the patch of padded "chamois” material.

Jerseys

A cotton T-shirt is a poor choice for cycling. Cotton traps and holds moisture, which makes the shirt heavy and causes chafing, and a standard T-shirt cut is baggy and catches the wind. Cycling jerseys wick moisture away from the skin and fit tighter to cut wind resistance. Cycling jerseys have rear pockets that are handy for carrying snacks, money, small tools, or a cell phone.

Shorts

A good pair of cycling shorts is a must. Cycling shorts are designed for wicking, aerodynamics, and comfort in the saddle. A patch of synthetic chamois in the crotch area provides padding and helps prevent chafing. (Shorts are rarely made with real chamois leather anymore.) The price of shorts ranges from $20 to $280.

Spend enough to get a pair with flat, smoothly sewn seams (bulky seams can chafe) and sufficient padding.

Gloves

Cycling gloves add padding between your hands and the handlebars. This is important because constant pressure against the ulnar nerve, which passes along your palm, can cause your hand and fingers to go numb. The padding also damps road vibration, which can feel annoying.

The leather palms of the gloves also protect your hands in the event of a crash. Most people have a tendency to land on their hands when they crash, and you can lose a lot of skin from your palms if they are not protected. You typically want fingerless, mesh-backed gloves for warm weather.

[21a] Cycling gloves serve two purposes: they provide padding to increase comfort and reduce numbness in the hands, and they offer protection to the palms in a crash.

[21b] Carry a rain jacket when riding on overcast days .a lightweight one for warmer temperatures and a heavier one for colder days.

[22a] Arm warmers and leg warmers are easily removed after you warm up while riding in moderately cold temperatures.

[22b] A wind vest provides relief from the wind on moderately cold days.

Outerwear

Riding in cold or wet weather can be miserable.

There are a few articles of clothing you should have to improve your riding experience in adverse conditions. (Other aspects of riding in cold are discussed in Section 5.)

._ The speed of cycling creates windchill, making a warm day seem cooler and a cool one cold. A wind vest is worn when it’s too cold for just a jersey and too hot for a jacket.

Wind vests feature a windproof front and a mesh back that allows heat to escape.

._ Many times you start a ride cold but warm up as you go. Leg and arm warmers keep your extremities warm when you’re wearing a short-sleeve jersey and cycling shorts. Arm warmers fit underneath your short-sleeve jersey and are easily removed by sliding them down and off your arm. Leg warmers fit underneath your cycling shorts and have a zipper located at the ankle that allows easy removal over your shoes.

._ Assume that you will get wet when you ride in overcast weather, and carry a light, breathable rain jacket. A non-breathable jacket retains most of the heat that you produce while riding, which will cause you to become soaked anyway, but with sweat.

Clear vinyl rain jackets with vents are good for cooler days.

._ A cold-weather jacket and cold-weather tights are necessities when the temperature drops.

._ In cold weather, it’s important to stem the loss of heat through your scalp. Wear a hat in cold conditions. Make sure the hat fits underneath your helmet, and adjust the chin strap accordingly. During really cold weather, wear a balaclava to protect your face as well.

._ Winter gloves should be warm, block the wind, and not have so much padding that they interfere with your ability to shift gears. Blocking the wind seems to be more important than insulation; as long as you keep the wind off your fingers, you can go with thinner gloves in most conditions. In extremely cold weather, you may need to give up a little mobility, in which case three-fingered gloves and mittens are warmer than five-fingered gloves.

._ Most cycling shoes are designed for maximum air flow, to keep your feet cool.

In cold weather, wear winter shoe covers, which block the wind and keep your feet warmer. Designed to f t over your shoes, they have an opening that allows your cleat to fit through for easy connection to the pedals.

Some shoe covers slide over the shoe, while others have zippers located at the heel.

[23a] Most cycling shoes are well ventilated to keep your feet cool, but this is undesirable in wintertime. Shoe covers prevent wind from entering through ventilated areas.

[23b] Cycling computers are essential for anyone who wants to train seriously.

[24] The Garmin Forerunner 305 functions as a cycle computer, a heart-rate monitor, and a GPS.

CYCLE COMPUTERS

A cycle computer is a valuable yet inexpensive training aid that tells you how far you’ve traveled, helps you keep track of mileage, enables you to record ride times, and monitors current and aver age speed. Prices start at about $30 and go up as the number of features increases.

We strongly advise buying, for $10 to $15 more, a cycle computer that also records cadence .the speed at which you turn the pedals, measured in rpm. Cadence is a critical measure of your economy of effort; it’s discussed in detail in Section 4.

If you live in a mountainous region, consider buying a cycle computer with an altimeter function that records changes in elevation.

Most cycle computers have wires running to sensors on the front fork to measure speed, and on the chain stay to measure cadence. Wireless computers have sensors in the same locations that send coded signals to the base unit. The absence of wires makes the bike look less cluttered, but wireless computers still have a few technical hitches, and many units can be unreliable. They also drain batteries much faster than wired computers, require two batteries instead of one, and cost about three times as much.

Garmin, a manufacturer of global positioning systems (GPS), recently introduced a combination GPS .cycling computer. In addition to having standard cycling computer features and measuring heart rate, it can automatically map your route and help you find your way back again if you get lost. Another benefit is that at the end of a ride you can download your workout for analysis using the Garmin Training Center . The unit is expensive (about $300), and because it tracks your position from space, it does not read sudden changes in speed. At steady speeds, however, it’s extremely accurate.

Polar, Cateye and Ciclosport make cycle computers that measure heart rate and have the capability to download ride data for an analysis of your performance.

Next: Introduction

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